General-Purpose Mixers
NutriMill Artiste
I got the Nutrimill Artiste bottom-drive stand mixer on sale in Fall 2023 for $200. It is regularly sold for $299. The lid has a sticker stating a maximum dough capacity of 6 lbs or 2.7 kg (2,700 g), more than enough for two large or three to four smaller loaves.
However, the user manual states a maximum load for bread dough of 8 lbs, which is 3.6 kg. I typically work with a 3.4 kg high-hydration dough, which nearly maxes out the 6.5-quart capacity of the mixing bowl as the dough can rise on the center column. The recommended max load of 8 lbs or 3.6 kg of wet dough is better be respected.
I use the Artiste to produce a much more consistent and well-blended dough than via hand-mixing, which is especially important in high-hydration artisan recipes. The mixer forms a denser gluten mesh, incorporating a lot of air inside.
The more the dough is developed in a mixer via longer and faster mixing, the fewer coil folds may be needed. Conversely, the shorter the mixing time, the more coil folds may be added to compensate for the development of the dough. Dough, however, continues to develop during bulk fermentation, that is, past any mixing and coil folds.
I was unsure how the Artiste, with its center column, would handle a stiffer, low-hydration dough typical for soft German pretzels. I tried making pretzels in December 2023, and the mixer kneaded the 1.4 kg or 1,400 g dough for 12 pretzels very nicely into a cohesive ball. However, mixing a much larger batch of stiff pretzel dough might be too taxing for the Artiste.
After some trials, I keep the weight of the pretzel dough in the Artiste to under 6 lbs or 2.7 kg. I now mix enough dough for 18 x 115g pretzels at a time, which amounts to about 2.1 kg of dough.
NutriMill sells a high-capacity, bottom-drive stainless steel bowl (a design without a center column) that can replace the Artiste’s 6.5-quart plastic bowl. However, NutriMill advised me that despite the larger capacity of the bottom-drive stainless steel bowl, the machinery in the Artiste itself should not be taxed with more than 6 lbs or 2.7 kg of dough.
December 2024
The Artiste works very well for a home baker, but may not be suitable enough for a growing cottage bakery. NutriMill had its annual Christmas sale and I upgraded to the Bosch Universal Plus. Why not the Ankarsrum (see below)? I prefer the Bosch’s double hook over the Ankarsrum’s single hook. The Universal Plus with the white plastic bowl is branded as even more capacitated than the Ankarsrum, and can be had for less money.
Bosch Universal Plus
NutriMill also sells the Bosch Universal Plus, a stand mixer with a more powerful motor and gears than the Artiste. With plenty of attachments, the Bosch is perhaps an ideal mixer for people who bake larger batches. For a little more money, the Bosch Universal Plus is then a step up from the Artiste.
There are two versions of the Bosch Universal Plus mixer sold by NutriMill. The White and the Black mixer. What’s the difference? The white version has a 6.5 qt bowl made from sturdy plastic, while the Black version has a 6.5 qt stainless-steel bowl with a screwed-in plastic column. Both bowls have that sturdy plastic center column, but the white bowl’s center column is seamlessly molded into the bowl and not a screw-in. An older version of the Bosch mixer also offered a stainless-steel bowl with a bottom-mounted hook instead of a center column.
I know, it’s confusing. But here’s the thing: NurtiMill’s website states that the White mixer with the sturdy plastic bowl can mix dough up to 14 x 1 lb loaves (6.35 kg), while the Black mixer with the stainless-steel bowl can only handle dough up to 10 x 1 lb loaves (4.54 kg). I asked NutriMill why that is and support at L’Chef, the parent company of NutriMill, answered that the stainless-steel bowl’s center column can come loose as it is screwed in. That is, the entire bowl of the Black mixer is made from two pieces: a metal outer bowl and a plastic center column. The homogenous molding of the white bowl is therefore superior in strength to the others and allows it to mix more dough. Since the Artiste’s white bowl also holds a screwed-in center column, it follows that it is inferior for the same reason to the white bowl of the Universal Plus.
Some people might prefer stainless steel for its good looks, others are biased against plastic for health reasons, and yet others might mix a batter with ingredients too hot for even sturdy plastic. I get all that. However, I bake a lot of loaves and pretzels and thus prefer a sturdy, large-capacity plastic bowl.
My time working with the Artiste made me appreciate its double hook. I believe that the double hook, found also on the Bosch mixer, is nearly as good for kneading dough as the spiral hook and bar on an expensive spiral mixer. The White Universal Plus sells regularly for $449, while the Black Universal Plus sells regularly for $499.
Ankarsrum Assistant
A step up from the Artiste is the popular Ankarsrum Assistant stand mixer at some $750. According to the company, its mixer sports a 7-liter bowl. The Assistant can mix 5 kg or 11 lbs of dough without a problem with the dough hook. The Ankarsrum is a favorite among many micro cottage bakers even though the flexing position of the roller/hook may need to be attended to during mixing. It seems to me that mixing bread dough in the Ankarsrum takes a bit longer.
The maker of the Ankarsrum stand mixer says it is easy to use and clean due to its user-friendly design. It has an intuitive control panel, a range of speeds, and a removable bowl, making it simple to get the perfect mix for each recipe. Additionally, it is equipped with a range of accessories, making it possible to produce a variety of recipes with simple steps. And the warranty is great.
https://www.ankarsrum.com/us/prepare-5-kilos-of-dough/
A Step Up
A step up from a home baker’s Bosch and Ankarsrum is spiral mixers, costing between $1,000 and $2,000 and up. These machines are not general-purpose mixers with various attachments but, as one-trick ponies, simply dough mixers with only a dough hook. These mixers work with oomph, producing smooth dough. Spiral mixers are generally acknowledged to be the best for developing dough. Pizza shops love them.
https://www.bakemag.com/articles/5287-6-keys-to-buying-the-right-spiral-mixer
“Planetary mixers need gears to emulate the rotating bowl action of a spiral mixer, whereas spiral mixers use two motors — one to rotate the bowl and one to rotate the spiral arm — and a pulley system instead of gears. This results in smoother, quieter action.
While planetary mixers can offer great versatility for a wide range of jobs, spiral mixers offer capacity versatility by allowing users to mix less than 10 percent of the unit’s capacity, which is not possible with planetary mixers since batches that are too small will not incorporate sufficiently. Spiral mixers are also better suited for kitchens that are focused on making dough. Planetary mixers have a rougher kneading action that results in the dough rising in temperature more quickly. Conversely, spiral mixers keep the dough at a lower temperature because the mixer bowl rotates as the spiral hook spins to knead the dough.
This gentler action and resulting lower dough temperature ensures that the dough doesn’t start the fermenting process too quickly or get overheated — resulting in proper activation of the yeast. Artisanal and specialty breads typically must ferment slowly, so temperature control is crucial in the process.”
Kys Pro Baker, Revo Baker
The 64 lbs KYS Pro Baker 7 and Revo Baker 7.5 are fairly new entries into the spiral mixer market. With a bowl volume of 7.5 liters, a max flour capacity of 3 kg flour, and 4.8 kg of dough at 60% hydration, these mixers are ideal for dough challenges. The adjustable speed makes it perfect for all types of dough, regardless of hydration. This is especially useful when working with soft doughs and adding fat during kneading.
It is important to check these manufacturers for the warranty they may offer or not.
SpiralMac
The 84 lbs SpiralMac SV8 Royal Queen mixes and kneads up to 17.6 lbs. (8 kg) of dough at 60% hydration (or more at higher hydration) but also handles batches as small as 2.2 lbs (1.2 kg) at 60% hydration equally well. In terms of flour capacity, this is 7 lbs. (3.2 kg) down to as little as 1 lbs (0.48 kg). The capacity of the stainless steel bowl is 10.5 quarts (10 liters).
The Spiralmac mixer features a removable bowl while avoiding the complexity involved with a tilting head. Both the breaker bar and the dough hook are removable.
Famag
The 77 lbs Famag IM-8 mixes and kneads up to 17.6 lbs. (8 kg) of dough at 60% hydration (or more at higher hydration) but also handles batches as small as 2.2 lbs. (1 kg) equally. The IM-8 mixer is available in two dough hook RPM ranges 98-345 or 130-312 RPM.
In terms of flour capacity, this is 7 lbs. (3.2 kg) down to as little as 0.88 lbs. (0.4 kg) of flour. The capacity of the stainless steel bowl is 11.6 quarts (11 liters). The kneading arm of the Famag lifts high for bowl access and removal and provides lift assist.
I am not sure that the Famag, popular as it seems, is the best deal around. Some reviewers noticed minor flaws (see below).
Vevor
The 89 lbs VEVOR commercial food mixer is a 450W dual rotating dough kneading machine with food-grade stainless steel bowl and offers a 8.5Qt capacity and security shield & timer.
At about $500, there is no tilting head or removable bowl, though.
Alpha
My favorite, the 90 lbs Alpha AVS-10T costs around $1,000, but is relatively untested. The bowl capacity is 10 liters or 10.5 qt, and the max mixing capacity is 3.5 kg or 7.7 lbs for flour and 5.6 kg or 12.3 lbs for dough. This capacity is a little more generous than the Ankarsrum’s, and it is a real spiral mixer.
The unique variable-frequency motor has numerous benefits, including quieter operation, more mixing speeds, more torque, and easier maintenance. The digital controller interface makes operation easy and includes features such as inching, reverse, and a removable bowl to help with the dough removal and cleaning processes.
This mixer may be great for doughs with low and high hydration levels. The digital timer allows a baker to set the mixer and walk away while working on other tasks.
Sunmix
The 66 lbs SUN6 Basic costing around $2,00, is a professional mixer performance concentrated in a benchtop mixer. This spiral mixer works with a double mechanical action, the rotating bowl takes the dough toward the spiral which simultaneously pushes it towards the divider bar. This process forms a very dense gluten mesh which incorporates a lot of air inside.
The mixer has a bowl volume of 8.5 qt for a flour capacity of 3.5 or 7.7 lbs and a dough capacity of 6 kg or 13 lbs.
James Bridges (Cottage Geeks group admin on Facebook, Feb. 5, 2024) quoted on the Famag mixers
“I have owned both Famag and Sunmix, and we have a Famag with a removable bowl at the bakery for R&D.
The tolerances are tighter on the Sunmix, with Famag having too much space between the breaker bar and the bottom of the bowl. There are also well-documented issues with the base of the bowl on the Famag, as well as the bowl sensors, which can fail so the mixer ceases to operate.
The Famag also has an exposed screw on the bowl spacer that makes cleaning the top challenging and is just an example of poor workmanship. There are also documented issues with the breaker bar bending under the stress of mixing due to how it is attached.
And finally, the Sunmix has better overall kneading action, so it performs better. I’m glad that Famag has an extended warranty, though; if yours fails, you might have a chance at getting it sorted.
They won’t say it publicly, but PHG isn’t pushing the Famag anymore and has pivoted toward the SpiralMac as their preferred mixer to sell. I’m a previous owner of Famag IM-40, and besides the IM-8S we already have at the bakery, I won’t ever own one again.
A perfect piece of bakery equipment does not exist, but after extensive use, I can confidently say Sunmix is the best spiral mixer available for home use. I recommend the Pro, but the basic is still a great mixer if one is on a budget. The Pro is better at handling wet dough, and the light and reverse are excellent.”
Understanding Mixer Terms: Planetary, Spiral, Fixed Bowl, Removable Bowl
The following article is adapted from DoughTech and discusses mixer types.
https://www.doughtech.com/understanding-mixer-terms-planetary-spiral-fixed-bowl-removable-bowl/
Planetary Mixer
Planetary mixers are given this name because of how the mixers revolve around the center of the bowl, like a planet around the sun. The bowl stays in place as the mixers cycle rapidly around. These are usually single-motor, non-rotating bowl mixers designed for general purpose, with various attachments that can be used to shred, chop, or grate other ingredients like cheese, meat, and vegetables.
However, as solely a bread mixer, they require additional attachments and are far more challenging to produce consistent and well-blended dough. A planetary mixer may be right for you if your business intends to produce more than just bread and has the necessary attachments and expertise. However, if your goal is solely to produce pizza dough, artisan bread, or baked goods, a spiral mixer is the tool for you!
Pros:
- Versatile
Cons
- Less airy dough
- Rougher & warmer mix
- Slower dough development
Spiral Mixer
Unlike a planetary mixer, a spiral mixer has a rotating bowl that spins while the spiral hook spins and kneads the dough, similar to hand kneading. This produces less friction and less heat on the dough, ensuring proper temperature for fermentation and speeding up dough development by 20%-30%. They can easily produce a much more consistent and well-blended mix than a planetary mixer, which is especially important in high-hydration artisan recipes. Spiral mixers form a very dense gluten mesh, incorporating a lot of air inside.
A 30-quart spiral mixer can handle 18 kg of dough, that is make twenty 900 lbs loaves.
Pros:
- Gentler on the dough
- Less heat and friction
- More uniform dough
- Faster Development (20-30% reduction in mix time)
Cons:
- Specifically for Dough
- No attachments are available.
Fixed Bowl Mixer
The term “Fixed Bowl” can be misleading since the bowl can rotate but not be removed. These are generally spiral mixers designed to be used in smaller bakeries and provide good baking speed for the price. They must be loaded and unloaded by hand every time, often requiring the baker to cut the flour into smaller-sized pieces for lifting.
Pros:
- Cheaper
- Compact
- Good for smaller operations
Cons:
- Have to cut out the dough
- Can’t remove the bowl for washing
- Slower workflow than with a removable bowl.
Removable Bowl Mixer
These mixers allow bowls to be removed and benefit significantly from this feature. Using multiple bowls can increase mixing capacity by 50-100%. By swapping a pre-loaded bowl every time, the time spent loading and unloading the bowl is simultaneous with the mixing process.
This reduces space on the floor compared to using multiple mixers and allows for further automation. Automated bowl lifters and tippers reduce heavy lifting from staff, lowering the risk of injury and labor costs and allowing them to focus on more skillful technical labor.
Pros:
- Significantly Faster Workflow
- Allows for Automation
- Easier to clean
Cons:
- More expensive
- More bowls take up space.